Between March and June 1999 Albania and Macedonia hosted the refugees of the largest mass exodus in Europe since the second world war. Over 800,000 ethnic Albanians were expelled from Kosovo, finding refuge in host families, temporary shelters and camps in neighbouring countries. Following the NATO bombing campaign and withdrawal of VJ troops from Kosovo, they streamed home in less than 3 weeks. I  had the pleasure of working with these people for several months in the refugee camps and villages in Albania, and later for a year in Kosovo itself.    These are just a few shots of Kukes, where 100,000 people camped for months in the mud of a mountain plateau, surrounded by astonishingly beautiful scenery. The dominant memories are of spring flowers mixed with the garbage, dry, hot dusty days alternating with cool mountain evenings, and the ever present stench of human excrement mixed with the caustic soda dumped into the field latrines.     Dedicated to the Kukes Roughriders, "Alpha Hotel Sex Sex" the unforgettable MAP Team, Kukes Bira, the Chicken Restaurant, and the climate of hope and new beginnings.

ALBANIA 1999

Renewable evening entertainment - sunset over Kukes Lake -

central compound of Kukes II Camp, Mt. Nanga in the background (2460 mt.)

rest stop at Fush-Arez along the 7 hour butt-busting drive from Tirana to Kukes.    Tico, Ardian, Pete, myself

Basic kitchen facilities in Kukes II. While prepared food was provided for all in common mess tents, some refugees also supplemented with their own food. Rocks, tent pegs, even an engine block could be used as cooking stands.

A "street" in Kukes II. An average of 10 people lived in each 16 square meter tent. Crowding, drainage problems and a total lack of privacy led to constant social tension, although these conditions are DeLuxe by comparison with African refugee camps, where sticks and plastic tarps equate to housing

Kosovar Albanian guest family in the village of Bicaj. The highest birth rate in Europe is clearly evident.

The "Arab Camp" (U.A.E.)  seen from Kukes II. Considered the Beverly Hills of Kukes thanks to flush toilets and very high levels of security provided by the UAE Armed Forces

After-curfew party in House 1:   Fitim, Tico, Ardian, Greg, Bornfree, Pete, Milem