On
December 26, 2004, at 07.58 a.m. local time, a massive undersea earthquake occurred in the Indian Ocean just north of Simeue island, off the western coast of northern Sumatra.

Immediately following the
disaster I was asked to coordinate the response of the United Nations Food and Agriculture Organization, and spent a year and a half between Indonesia, Thailand and FAO Rome headquarters managing a reconstruction program for Indonesia, Sri Lanka, Maldives, Thailand and Myanmar. These are a few early impressions of Aceh.

The magnitude of the earthquake was recorded as
between 9.1 and 9.3. At this magnitude, it is the second largest earthquake ever recorded on a seismograph. This earthquake was reported to be the longest duration of faulting ever observed, lasting between 500 and 600 seconds, and it was large enough that it caused the entire planet to vibrate at least half an inch.  It also triggered earthquakes in other locations as far away as Alaska.

The earthquake triggered a series of
massive tsunamis that devastated the shores of Indonesia, Sri Lanka, India, Thailand and other countries with waves up to 30 meters high, traveling at 400 km per hour. It caused serious damage and deaths as far as the east coast of Africa, with the furthest recorded death due to the tsunami occurring at Port Elizabeth in South Africa, 8,000 km (5,000 mi) away from the epicenter. Although initial estimates have put the worldwide death toll at over 275,000 with thousands of others missing, recent analysis compiled lists a total of 229,866 persons lost, including 186,983 dead and 42,883 missing. The catastrophe is one of the deadliest disasters in modern history.

The plight of the many affected people and countries prompted one of the
largest humanitarian a responses in history. In all, the worldwide community donated more than US$7 billion in humanitarian aid to those affected by the earthquake.

earthquake and tsunami wrecked car in downtown Banda Aceh
coastal plain of Banda Aceh in January
The team planning our first coastal damage assessments
typical tsunami damage on the west coast of Aceh - just foundations and floors left of entire towns
body taboos requiring full clothing even in horrendous sticky heat
remains of a fishing village south of Calang, Aceh
In these areas the waves went as far as 4 km inland
Former prime coastal farmland turned into salt march
former farmland and aquaculture ponds transformed into permanent swampland
Lone outpost - remnant piece of coastline with salt tolerant Casuarina trees stabilizing it
a village flattened by the Tsunami on the West Coast, the nearest spot to the sub-sea epicenter of the earthquake
Calang on the west coast of Aceh, just 10% of the population survived the tsunami
Calang, survivors camped on the only (relatively) high ground
Usual cultural sensitivity of ad-hoc aid groups. Pork chops are very popular with devout Moslem Acenese
The most familiar image of the tsunami in Aceh - boats on roofs